The Colorful History of the Painted Costa Rican Ox Cart

Jul 5, 2018 | Costa Rican Culture

Updated 9/24/2022

The Costa Rican ox cart has evolved substantially over the years. They started out as rough-hewn vehicles that were used for hauling coffee. Some families used them as a form of transportation–perhaps the only one they had.

These original carts were a far cry from the colorful versions you can see in Costa Rica today. Now the Costa Rican ox cart is one of Costa Rica’s most prominent traditional symbols. You’ll see them on display in museums and towns all over Costa Rica.

But none more prominent than Sarchí, the town in Costa Rica most known for artisan woodworking. It is now the only place left that produces these colorful, hand-painted works of art. Let’s dive in and take a look at the colorful history of the Costa Rican ox cart.

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The Humble Beginnings of the Costa Rican Ox Cart

The Costa Rican ox cart first appeared around 120 years ago in a much different form than you see it today. There were no bright colors or fancy painted designs. They were simple, rough-hewn, and a very practical form of transportation.

They were designed for a specific purpose. Farmers needed to get their coffee beans from the Central Valley over the mountains to the port in Puntarenas. The ox cart was the way to do it.

Today, that trip only takes a few hours in a car. But those early Costa Ricans had to settle in for a 10-15 day trip to transport their crop.

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The Unique Design

If you’ve ever taken a moment to examine the wheels of these ox carts you’ll notice something unique, other than the colorful design. The wheels are constructed a bit differently than you may have seen on other antique carts.

Back in that day, building a wheel was no easy task. Especially wheels that would hold up for that journey over the mountains and not get stuck in the mud.

Creating a single disk out of one piece of wood was not very practical. Not only was it difficult to find a single piece of wood large enough, but also it would squash into an oval after using it for a while. This is because wood grain only runs one direction and as the wheel was used it would wear unevenly.

The spoked wheel design that the Spaniards brought also wasn’t very practical. They got stuck in the mud too easily.

Innovative Costa Ricans, therefore, designed a new kind of wheel. They took 16 wedge-shaped pieces and bound them together with a metal band. Like a pizza with 16 slices.

These wheels were the heavy-duty compromise that the coffee farmers needed. Carts today are still built with this wheel design to keep up with tradition.

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When Things Got Colorful

As you can imagine, it took quite a bit of work to build these sturdy carts. As such, they came to be a sort of status symbol for Costa Rican families. At a time when most people walked or maybe rode a horse for transportation, having an oxcart to ride around on was a real luxury.

In the early part of the 1900’s, craftsmen began taking things one step further. They started painting the carts with bright colors and intricate designs that included flowers, stars, faces, and even landscapes.

Each town/area developed its own unique designs. At the market, you could immediately tell where a farmer was from by the painted pattern of his cart.

A Relic of the Past

Over the years, the practical purpose of the ox cart began to fade away. With better roads and modes of transportation, the ox cart wasn’t so necessary to get the coffee beans to the market.

Instead of fading into oblivion like many other relics of the past, the ox cart became a symbol of Costa Rica. It is a testament to the old way of doing things.

With this shift from practical purpose to a national symbol, artisans began to shift their focus. Even now, Costa Ricans hold festivals each year and artisans compete with their ox cart designs.

Not only does the elaborate painted design count, but also the sound the cart makes. The metal ring that binds the wood makes a chime as it strikes the hub nut. Using different types of wood causes this sound to change. So artisans started playing with different constructions to make the prettiest sounds.

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Sarchí: The Last Holdout

The brightly painted ox carts have always been unique to Costa Rica. Nowadays, they’re also unique to Sarchí, a small town in the mountains to the northwest of San José. The last few artisans that keep making these remarkable symbols of Costa Rican culture are located in this little town.

The area is also famous for its woodworking craftsman in general. If you want a truly lovely piece of quality wood furniture, Sarchí is the place to get it.

We visited Sarchí on the same trip that we took to Zarcero. The towns are fairly close together up in the mountains.

Llike many visitors, we stopped to marvel at the giant ox cart on display in the center of town. It’s the largest in the world and a source of Costa Rican pride. It’s located in front of the impressive church in Sarchí, which I had to get a pic of as well. As always, if you love one of my photos and would love a copy for your wall, be sure to check out the store.

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Don’t Miss Out

The old ways are slowly disappearing all across Costa Rica as technology advances things. For now, the brightly painted Costa Rican ox cart is still seen all over Costa Rica and serves as a reminder of the days of old.

Don’t wait to come to visit these little pockets of the past. Come soon before they all disappear!

Love all things Costa Rica? Be sure to take a spin around my souvenir shop. I make the designs from photographs I take around this beautiful country!

Until next time…
Cara

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